Dazzling Designs Lift Mood at Paris Fashion Shows

Paris designers were on top form on Monday as the spring-summer haute couture collections kicked off in the French capital, despite fears of war and recession that are casting a pall over the luxury-goods industry.

British designer John Galliano showed a virtuoso collection at Christian Dior that filtered visions of the Orient through Alice's looking glass, launching a condensed season designed to spare editorial budgets as economic growth wavers.

Shows by the major French fashion houses, usually spread out over four days, take place over just 48 hours.

As fears of a war in Iraq dampen market sentiment, most celebrities opted to stay at home. The Italian house of Versace, which counts pop diva Madonna (news - web sites) among its fans, scrapped its catwalk show in favor of a small in-store exhibition.

Despite the dour mood, and the presence of a handful of anti-war protesters outside, Jean-Paul Gaultier put on a whimsical display that confirmed the French couturier as the heir apparent to Yves Saint Laurent, who retired last year.

In Gaultier's skilful hands, nothing was as it seemed.

Models wore miniature shirts and jackets strapped to the body like bustier tops. A crochet bodice was woven into a spider's web, while an oversized black lace cartwheel hat that doubled as a dress drew waves of enthusiastic applause.

A long white tutu made the transition from stage to ballroom thanks to the addition of a purple satin corset. Twenties-style flapper dresses were festooned with mother-of-pearl buttons that clicked with every move.

Gaultier, who took on many of the skilled seamstresses who lost their jobs when Saint Laurent's workshop closed in October, paid tribute to the legendary designer with a simply draped shocking pink chiffon evening gown.

At the opposite end of the spectrum was a slate chiffon dress festooned with tiny butterflies, worn with a tongue-in-cheek hat made of broken shards of blue and white "azulejo" tiles.

With his front row flush with former Saint Laurent clients, Gaultier can hope his flourishing house will keep expanding.