India : Branded Women Wear Segment Set To Explode

What was a small encroachment into a male world so far is now turning into a major sartorial warfare. With women now demanding a larger share of labelled fabric, the branded womens wear segment is set to explode in India.

The phenomenon is now gaining momentum with a flurry of brands eyeing the segment seriously. Topline corporate brands, designer brands like Ritu Kumar, Ravi Bajaj, in-store labels of Lifestyles, Shoppers Stops and regional names like Natalia, AND and Udare are all firming up strategies not to be far behind.

All the players are trying to find a niche for themselves in what is emerging as the segment of the future -- formalwear, casualwear and a fusion of both. While Allen Solly and Scullers are already strong players, Arrow, Provogue, Be by Raymonds, BarCode, Essence are considering serious business in the segment. Though this segment is not being tracked properly, experts estimate the size of branded womenswear at Rs 120 crore and growing at 20% per annum.

But what is most interesting is the intensity with which regional players are fighting it out for a fair share of the pie. "With readymade womenswear category gaining momentum, local or regional boutique segment is turning into regional brands," said Mr Shailesh Chaturvedi, brand manager, Allen Solly.

And regional players are aggressively seeking a national platform. "We are already at the national level. Natalia shaped up in two years and is currently being distributed through 18 outlets in north and south of India from a mere three outlets during the same period last year," said Mr G Shankaranarayanan, vice-president, SM Fashions, an export house that launched Natalia.

Udare, a ready to wear western apparel brand for women that was launched in 2001 by a Chennai-based export house, Magnum Wear, is today present in over 12 cities and 23 outlets. "We believe that today's Indian woman is well attuned with current fashion trends and in constantly looking for avenues to combine smart dressing with cultural and social acceptability, both at home and at the workplace," said Ms Monica Ojha, director, Magnum Wear.

According to reputed fashion designer Anita Dongre, who launched branded western wear and in 1999, "The future is definitely bright. Apart from the metros, there is lot of scope in the B cities. With the segment of working women growing, the growth of the market is for sure." AND is also set to go national as the women's segment grows.

Arvind Brands is present in the womenswear segment through Lee, Wrangler, Flying Machine and Ruggers. Almost 30-40% of their lines are for women. "Since the base for the menswear segment is large, we are realising small growth rates. On the contrary, since womenswear is an emerging one and relatively small, it is growing at much higher rates," said Ms Suparna Mitra, business head at Lee.